Minitrix Ivatt 2MT 2-6-0 (with tender) DCC Conversion

Mistakes may damage your locomotive, controller or other accessories. Use a multimeter to make absolutely sure you have completely isolated the motor from the track before testing. Always use the Programming Track for testing. Our guides are provided for reference only, and you proceed entirely at your own risk. Unsure about something - try our DCC Conversion Service instead.

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This guide covers the Minitrix Ivatt 2MT 2-6-0 models with tender, including:

• N202 Ivatt 2MT 2-6-0 46400 (BR Black)

The 2-6-2 version of the Ivatt 2MT without the tender is very similar to convert, but there is a specific guide to converting the N205 Ivatt 2MT 2-6-2 here too.

Step 1 - Remove Body

First pop off the smoke box cover using your fingernails. Remove the screw behind it. To remove the body, you need to gently prise the plastic bit at the bottom over the metal part. It's not uncommon to see this plastic piece either snapped off, or intentionally removed to make taking the body off easier.

Step 2 - Remove Motor Housing

Unclip the plastic motor housing by unclipping it at the bottom. Note how the contacts on the 'feet' touch the pickup contacts coming from the wheels. It is this connection that we need to isolate so we can insert a decoder between the track power and the motor.

Step 3 - Remove Components

Cut the metal feet off the bottom of the motor housing so they can no longer touch the pickup contacts. Desolder the capacitor that is over the top of the motor housing, and also the choke that bridges the two solder points on one side. Desolder the wire coming between the loco and the tender.

Step 4 - Connect Track Pickup Wires

Solder wires to the underside of the pickup contacts. They won't be visible when the body goes back on. Use a multimeter to check that these wires have continuity at either side to the back two wheels. The front wheel on each side should have a traction tyre on it, so won't be used to collect power from the track.

Step 5 - Connect Motor Wires

Solder wires to either side of the motor housing. These will provide power to the motor via the sprung contacts inside the housing that touch the motor. Refit the motor housing by clipping it back on. Check that the motor wires have no continuity with the pickup contacts or the wheels.

Refit the body.

Step 6 - Disassemble Tender

Remove the tender body by removing the screw underneath. You will need to remove the front set of wheels to access it.

Unclip the weight. Remove the black wire that was previously connected to the loco, if not already done.

Step 7 - Connect Pickup Wires

Solder the pickup wires coming from each side of the loco to the contact strip at the corresponding side in the tender.

Solder a separate short red and a black wire to each contact also. These will go to the decoder, so we can use the standard colour coding here. Note that in the photos, black wires have been used as they will be partially visible between the loco and tender when reassembled.

Refit the weight, making sure the wires run neatly inside the grooves at either side underneath so they do not get trapped.

Step 8 - Fit Decoder

There is just enough room in the roof of the tender to fit a small decoder. Position it with some black tack and some tape to make sure it cannot short against the metal weight.

Reattach the tender.

Solder the red and black wires from the tender pickups to the decoder. Solder the two motor wires coming from the loco to the decoder.

Step 9 - Test

At this point, after you have checked your wiring is good, you should be able to place it on your programming track and read the loco ID. If all is well, the motor should turn slightly in either direction and the default ID of 3 should come back.

Refit the tender body and the conversion is complete.

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