Kato Class 800 DCC Sound Installation - Driving Standard (DPTS)

Mistakes may damage your locomotive, controller or other accessories. Use a multimeter to make absolutely sure you have completely isolated the motor from the track before testing. Always use the Programming Track for testing. Our guides are provided for reference only, and you proceed entirely at your own risk. Unsure about something - try our DCC Conversion Service instead.

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This guide shows how to install DCC sound into the standard class driving end car (designation 'DPTS') of the Kato N Gauge Class 800 models, including:

• Class 800/0 800021 in GWR Green (5-car set) (10-1671)
• Class 800/0 800010 'Michael Bond' in GWR Green with Paddington Bear branding (5-car set) (10-1673)
• Class 800/2 800209 in LNER white/red (5-car set) (10-1674)
• Class 800/1 800113 in LNER white/red (9-car set) (10-1675)

This guide shows how to install sound in the standard class driving end (DPTS) car, and includes modification of the red and white directional marker lights. Some modification of the chassis, underframe and interior is required. The body shell does not need any modification. This guide will fit a Next18 socket and speaker so it is completely hidden under the floor.

The standard formation of the five-car LNER and GWR Class 800s is: DPTS-MS-MS-MC-DPTF. You can also fit sound to the first class driving car, and also the motorized centre car. For best results, install sound in the motorized car and both driving end cars, especially if you have a 9-car LNER set.

You will need to purchase an ESU LokSound 5 Micro DCC Sound decoder with a Class 800 sound file (e.g. Legomanbiffo) loaded onto it.

Step 1 - Disassemble Interior

First remove the body by gently unclipping it and pushing upwards.

Remove the lighting diffuser, seating plastic, front lighting cluster unit and weight.

Step 2 - Modify Pickups

Remove both copper strips and both clips. At the 'front' (light cluster) end, cut each strip before the bump. At the 'rear' end, cut the strip where marked. Discard the middle sections, they are no longer needed.

Refit the copper pieces. At the front end, use a small amount of glue at the inner end to secure it to the chassis. At the rear end, use a small amount of glue on the plastic support.

Add a small amount of solder to each strip, this will make it easier to wire up later.

Step 3 - Fit Speaker & Decoder Socket

Remove the two front supports from the underfloor tray. Glue in the speaker and Next18 decoder socket. Solder two brown wires from the decoder socket to the speaker.

Remove the two supports from the bottom of the seating plastic.

Step 4 - Connect Track Pickups

Solder red and black wires from the decoder socket to the rear track pickup strips. Solder red and black wires to re-join the two sets of pickup strips on each side. This is a non-motorized unit, so the grey and orange wires can be removed from the decoder socket.

Step 5 - Modify Lighting PCB

Cut four small notches for the lighting wires to pass through, so that the lighting PCB can still sit flush when refitted.

Solder a blue link wire between the two common positives on the lighting PCB.

Solder the white and yellow wires from the decoder socket to the lighting PCB. The white (white light) wire should go to the bottom-left pad, the yellow (red light) wire should go to the top right.

Refit the lighting PCB.

Step 6 - Test

At this point, check the wiring is all sound and test on your programming track. The directional lighting and speaker should all work correctly.

Step 7 - Reassemble

Refit the lighting cluster unit, seating and lightbar diffuser. Clip the body back on, and the conversion is complete.

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