Minitrix 9F Black DCC Conversion

Mistakes may damage your locomotive, controller or other accessories. Use a multimeter to make absolutely sure you have completely isolated the motor from the track before testing. Always use the Programming Track for testing. Our guides are provided for reference only, and you proceed entirely at your own risk. Unsure about something - try our DCC Conversion Service instead.

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This guide covers the Minitrix 9F, including:

• 9F 92018 BR Black (N207)
• 9F 92220 'Evening Star' BR Green (N209)

Step 1 - Remove body

Remove the loco body by unscrewing the screw in the top, then gently pulling upwards. Remove the weight.

Step 2 - Remove Components

Remove the screw holding the PCB in place. Desolder the copper tabs, green wire, red wire and black wire from the PCB. Remove the PCB.

Snip off the top of the copper tabs so they are only just slightly taller than the top of the red cog.

Unthread the black wire back through the hole in the back of the loco's motor bay, and instead thread it through the corresponding hole at the other side.

Step 3 - Remove Motor

Desolder the red and green wires from the motor. Remove the motor by unscrewing the two screws at the back of the motor bay holding it in.

Step 4 - Isolate Motor Bay

Put some tape around the bottom of the motor bay so that the sprung contact at the bottom of the motor can no longer make electrical contact with the chassis.

Refit the motor. Using a multimeter, check there is no continuity between either of the motor contacts and the chassis.

Step 5 - Modify Bulb Holder

Remove the screw keeping the bulb holder in place. Remove the bulb and the holder.

Cut a notch out of the bottom rear part of the bulb holder, the light wire from the decoder will enter through here.

Solder the white wire to the tip of the bulb.

Fold back the contact that was previously pushing against the back of the bulb so that it is flat. It should no longer be able to touch the bulb when refitted.

Thread the white wire through the notch you previously made in the bulb holder. Re-seat the bulb holder and bulb. Refit the screw.

Step 6 - Connect the decoder

Position the decoder on the pillar which originally held the stock PCB. Add some tape so it cannot come into contact with any part of the chassis. Solder the red and black wires to the shortened tabs, and add a piece of heat shrink sleeve over each so it cannot touch the chassis pillar.

Step 7 - Connect the tender pickup

Solder the black wire coming from the tender to the copper tab just between the second and third wheels. At this point, you can add another tender pickup for the other rail if you wish, this can help running reliability and reduces the reliance on the tender draw bar to provide and electrical connection. Conveniently, there is a spare hole behind the motor to pass the wire through.

Step 8 - Connect motor

Solder the orange and grey wires from the decoder to the motor contacts.

Step 9 - Connect light

Solder the white wire from the bulb to the decoder.

Step 10 - Reassemble

Put some tape around the decoder to protect it from any shorts, and then use a blob of glue or some blacktack to fix it to the top of the chassis pillar.

Refit the weight and route the white wire over the top. Fix it in place with a piece of tape.

Step 11 - Test

Use your multimeter to check that there is no continuity between the track pickups (red/black wires) and the motor connections (orange/grey wires). Put it on your programming track, and try reading the Loco ID. After a short period and a bit of motor shuffling you should get the ID back. Assuming all is well, check that the light function turns the front lights on and off, then refit the body.

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